There’s a land—oh, it beckons and beckons, And I want to go back—and I will.

Dana and I will be home tomorrow.  Our Yukon (and other places) Adventure 2017 has been amazing.  5 weeks on the road and over 100 hours driving time, plus 72 hours of ferry travel on the Alaska Marine Highway system.  Too many highlights to mention but if you want to read about them start at the beginning of the blog.  No, actually I don't think the blog even includes all the highlights.  It would however be a great place to start.

Old friends, new friends, family and fellow travellers.  Our adventure has been as much about people as it has about places.  

Customs, cultures, trends and beliefs.  The Yukon is undergoing cultural, economic and societal change the result of years of planning and eventual implementation of a number of important land claim settlements between the Federal and First Nations governments.  The devolution of government functions, not just programs from the Federal government to Territorial and First Nations governments has resulted in visible changes in the Yukon.   There is a First Nations Cultural Centre in just about every community.  Kluane National Park puts as much focus on First Nations history as they do on traditional National Park information.  All tourism information, literature as well as highway information kiosks have been updated to include First Nations history and culture.  Much effort is being placed on correcting or re-focusing the modern history of the area.   For example,  it is the 75th Anniversary of the Alaska Highway, we no longer are told that the U.S. Army opened the territory and "discovered" the Yukon.  What we learn from the information today is that along with the benefits of the highway many First Nations communities suffered greatly with the after effects of the establishment of the Alaska Highway.

My take is that there are 3 pillars of this new society; Understanding the past;  healing; and finding a way forward.  Clearly there is much work to be done but there are positive signs all over the Yukon that progress is being made.  In my opinion Dawson City is the exception.  Little has changed in this town since I was last there in 2007.  Tourism and resource extraction may share the economic engine but there exists a palpable divide between these two sectors.  Many of the Dawson City merchants that we came in contact with were unfriendly and less than helpful.  While they gladly accepted our money, they gave the impression that they would prefer us to just leave.  On the other hand, when these same merchants were dealing with "locals" they appeared friendly.  Left me with a bad taste in my mouth.  Fortunately there was plenty of great craft beer available throughout our travels to wash this or any  bad taste away.

Speaking of great craft beer.......  (see previous post for details.....)

I cannot write this closing post without mentioning the wildlife, birds and beasts, that we were so very fortunate to see.  2 Grizzly Bears had to be a highlight but what about the 8 life birds?  The Red Fox was a beauty, but then who doesn't love a redhead.  Golden Eagles?  Check!  Moose?  5 of them! Yukon Kangaroo?  Check!  Black Bears?  Yep.  Check!  Bald Eagles?  Dime a dozen!!  Almost forgot the Whales.  Humpback and Orca.  Double check!! Billions of mosquitoes?  Swat, swat, squish......

Photography was important throughout our Adventure.  In many cases we expended a significant amount of time and effort to get a particular angle for a photo or just the right light.  I'll never forget the "Italian" fire drill in our 4Runner the day we shot the Grizzly photos. Not being able to leave the vehicle, Dana leaping from the front passenger seat into the back of the 4Runner to allow me move into the passenger seat to get a better angle with the big lens, then Dana climbing from the back into the drivers seat to back us up so we could take advantage of the angle of the sun on the bear.  Lots to consider to get a good photo.  You tell me if we succeeded.

Regarding photography, throughout this trip one thing that was continuously reaffirmed was that in order to get "the shot" or see wildlife 3 rules had to be observed at all times.  They are:  Have the right camera (battery charged, correct settings, etc.) and right lens (with the lens cap off) for the job with you at all times.  Fortunately we carried 4 cameras; Go to where the subject is.  You will not find a Grizzly Bear, Fox or beautiful sunset in your tent, hotel room or house.  Get out there!;  Number 3 is that if you are not a good photographer, hope that you are lucky.  Okay, that last one is not really a rule but luck plays a huge part and cannot be ignored.  I have been shooting wildlife for 5 years now and it seems I learn something every time I pick up the camera.  Sometimes the best shots are just plain lucky shots.

I have written about my feelings for the Yukon and how it captures and captivates me.  I always close my travel blogs with the verse of a favourite song, something that captures the moment, so to speak.  For Yukon or Bust 2017 I am going to close with a few verses of the poem "The Spell of the Yukon" by Robert Service:  (Note:  Editorial licence:  I left out a couple of verses and also changed the order of the verses in this poem.)  I cannot think of another poem or a song that captures how I am feeling right now.

This is it.  Que the Hank Karr music.  Thanks for coming with us on our Adventure.  I have thoroughly enjoyed writing about our adventures and sharing them and our photos with you.  You have been a wonderful audience.  Please drive carefully on your way home.....

No! There’s the land. (Have you seen it?) 

   It’s the cussedest land that I know, 

From the big, dizzy mountains that screen it 

   To the deep, deathlike valleys below. 

Some say God was tired when He made it; 

   Some say it’s a fine land to shun; 

Maybe; but there’s some as would trade it 

   For no land on earth—and I’m one. 

The summer—no sweeter was ever; 

   The sunshiny woods all athrill; 

The grayling aleap in the river, 

   The bighorn asleep on the hill. 

The strong life that never knows harness; 

   The wilds where the caribou call; 

The freshness, the freedom, the farness—

   O God! how I’m stuck on it all. 

There’s gold, and it’s haunting and haunting; 

   It’s luring me on as of old; 

Yet it isn’t the gold that I’m wanting 

   So much as just finding the gold. 

It’s the great, big, broad land ’way up yonder, 

   It’s the forests where silence has lease; 

It’s the beauty that thrills me with wonder, 

   It’s the stillness that fills me with peace.

There’s a land where the mountains are nameless, 

   And the rivers all run God knows where; 

There are lives that are erring and aimless, 

   And deaths that just hang by a hair; 

There are hardships that nobody reckons; 

   There are valleys unpeopled and still; 

There’s a land—oh, it beckons and beckons, 

   And I want to go back—and I will.

Leaving the Yukon and entering B.C. on the Haines Road.