Memories on the Haines Road, plus a fox and eagles.....

July 3rd: We are closing in on our stay in the Yukon. This morning we rose early and were on the road around 7. The first stop today was only a few kilometres down the road at the site of the Dezadeash Lodge. The lodge was once a thriving business on the Haines Road offering good food, accommodations, gasoline, minor car service, fishing and hunting guides. The owners, Heinz and Katie were real pioneers and treated everyone as family. Our connection to the lodge is that Dana’s sister Val once worked in the restaurant. This was when Dana and I lived at Pleasant Camp, Mile 42 on the Haines Road.

After enjoying those memories and also the view of Dezdeash Lake from the site of the old lodge we set off down the road in search of birds, animals and more memories. At Kilometre 62 we turned off the highway and drove a couple of km to Klukshu Village. The village is still inhabited and was once a First Nations traditional salmon fishing and trading centre. Although we are over 200 km from the sea, salmon still make there way through rivers and tributaries to the creek that runs through the village. There were signs of a few trading posts but they were all closed so we headed back to the Haines Road to continue our journey.

Our next detour was to the old site of Dalton Post. Eagle’s fans will recognize the name from one of their songs. It was during the gold rush that one of the duelling Dalton boys, looking to escape the California heat, established the post and began brewing espresso for weary travellers thereby creating the first hike through espresso stand north of the 54th parallel. Okay, delete that last bit. Historic fact: An entrepreneur named Jack Dalton saw an opportunity and established a post on an overland trade route that was already established and used by First Nations on the coast (Tilingit) and inland (Southern Tutchone). Gold seekers and suppliers saw this route as an alternative route to the gold fields in the Yukon and Alaska. The post was in operation for only a short time before gold ran out in Dawson and the gold rush was over. We drove 5 km on a narrow gravel road to get to the site. Not much there but the drive put us at the confluence of the Klukshu and Tatshenshini Rivers. The “Tat” gains strength from many rivers as it grows in size and then empties into Dry Bay on the Gulf of Alaska. This is one of the locations that rafter use to access the Tat.

Once back on the Haines Road we continued to Million Dollar Falls. If you have seen these falls you know why they were named “Million Dollar Falls”. Stunning, powerful, earthshaking, thundering. These are words one can use to describe not only the visual but the overall sensation one feels at this amazing place.

A few kms down the road we leave our beloved Yukon. Yukon is an enchanted place. It is powerful, strong and vibrant. At the same time one can sense how delicate it is. It is strong and fragile at the same time. We loved our time here in the 1970’s. Our return was like coming home. A lot was familiar to us and at the same time so much has changed. Communities have grown or disappeared. Transportation routes and conditions have reduced the need for services along the highways. The result is fewer lodges, service stations on the routes. Climate change has dramatically altered the topography. Rivers have disappeared and the glaciers have either disappeared or been reduced in size. What remains the same are the wonderful people. The friendliness. People always willing to help, or just say hey. (Dawson City would be the exception to this but I will save that for another post, or not.) It is true that when you have been up here, a little piece becomes part of you, always dragging you back. I am sure we will be back…..

Here we are back in beautiful British Columbia heading for the panhandle of Alaska. We have been doing some “hard” birding looking for Ptarmigan, Owls, Raptors, etc. Just when we thought we would be shut-out we spot a male Harrier in flight. He dips low beside the road and dives on….what?…a Red Fox? Yep, a Fox. The Harrier flies off and I start shooting photos of the Fox. Yip, yip, yippie… see photos below.

After the excitement we pull off the highway to listen for Ptarmigan. In the distance I spot a raptor in flight. One, no two Golden Eagles. Then another. Seems it is 2 adults and a juvenile. For the next 2 hours we watch, drive, watch, drive and watch some more. What a thrill seeing these magnificent birds in this vast wilderness.

We made a short stop at Mile 75 of the Haines Road. Until sometime in the 1980s this was a small community of highway workers. Nothing there today as the road is paved and there is no need for the constant upkeep of a gravel road. Dana’s sister Val worked as a cook at this camp after her employment at Dezdeash Lake Lodge. We used to drive from Pleasant Camp, which was at mile 42, to 75 mile on a regular basis to visit, have coffee or maybe a beer or rum and coke.

Back on the road we leave the high sub-alpine and drop quickly into the coastal rainforest. We pass by the Canadian Customs post of Pleasant Camp, B.C., where we lived and Barry worked in 1976/77. I have included a photo of the mountain that we looked at from our living room window. Spectacular.

We then entered Alaska and were on to Haines. It was quite the day. Memories galore plus wildlife and scenery to die for.

That’s it. Apologies for the lengthy post. If you actually read the entire post, take a break, have another beer, glass of wine or coffee…. Enjoy the photos. Tomorrow is the 4th of July parade and you just know I will have that covered… Might even have a Moose photo to share with you….